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:::EXPEDITION:EXPEDITION:EXPEDITION:EXPEDITION::: |
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DJEBEL TOUBKAL Massif EXPEDITION 2009 |
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The first deep penetrations within the High Atlas came in the late 1870s by geographers or explorers. The first recorded ascent was made in 1923 by French Marquis de Segonzac (who tried it a couple months before), Vincent Berger and Hubert Dolbeau, though most probably the summit have been reached during the summer time by local shepherds or by Berber tribesman. First solo by Bentley Beetham in 1926.
The second wave of foreigners came in the 1930s, bringing the first climbers that opened and identified many peak routes and made several traverses. Italians Bottery and Dougan made the still outstanding traverse of all main Toubkal summits, 17km of ridge climbing, in six days. In the 50s came a large wave of famous French rock climbers, namely Armand Charlet and Andre Contamine. Also, the Polish Gronsky, Kielpinski and Szczepanski opened many routes in different faces of the Massif.
From the end of the road at Imlil, the trekking begins, passing the last village Aroumd, up the Isougouane Valley until the two stone-built Refuges of Nelter in the higher Mizane Valley where it will be the Base Camp. Snow line expected between 2500 and 3000m.
South Cirque Route or Normal Route The easiest route up the Toubkal. A straight forward ascent, which in summer time is a sort of high altitude trekking. The route starts at the back of the old 1938 Nelter Hut (3207m) with the crossing of a small stream. Right there is the steep slope that leads to the Irhzer n`Ikhibi Janoub (Cirque). A nightmarish scree slope when the snow retreats later on in May. From the top of the slope the route heads straight on toward the walls on the northeastern side across the plateau. Once reached the wall below the Tizi n`Toubkal (Col at 3940m) the ground becomes steeper. From the Col and following the NE Ridgeline, passing some crags the summit plateau is reached. This section added by possible strong winds is the most challenging part of the route. Despite being a good reference, the summit is adorned with an ugly metal pyramid.
North Cirque Route It starts with a descent from the huts, crossing the stream and entering up the slope after the Toubkal West Ridge. The slope is steeper in the beginning but then relaxes and steeps again where are some rocky bands. At the end wall is the rocky Northeast Ridge accessed by a couloir then leftwards for the top plateau.
West Southwest Ridge The route is accessed by following the Hut´s valley northward until the water stream is crossed, from where it flexes eastward towards the visible Ouanoums Col. From there the route becomes technical with the climb of the WSW (Ouanoums) Ridge on the left. Pitches of III/IV on solid granite among some loose rock. The ridge has 4 big steps up to the plateau. The biggest wall is 40m high. Once reached the Ouanoums shoulder at 3850m, and after passed the saddle, the steepness lows to pass by the Toubkal West (4020m). Descent to the Tizi n`Toubkal, after it catches with the South Cirque route up to the summit. First climbed by Beetham and Brogden in 1930.
Southeast Ridge With the same access of the WSW Route, until the Tizi n`Ouanoums. After it goes down towards the Ifni Lake, slightly traversing to the left to reach the bottom of the steep gully, that leads to the Tizi n`Ifni (3750m). Towards westward along the long SE Ridge and after two big steps graded IV on the Ifni pinnacles, comes the Needle called Aiguille d`Ifni (4080m). Descent to a saddle and then up some slabs graded III that give away to the easier ground of the beginning of the summit plateau. First climbed by Lepiney and Stofer in 1927.
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COMMENTS ON THE ROUTES
This expedition does not contain only the climb of Djebel Toubkal but is a selection of routes that involves other peaks of the Massif. Effort suitable for trekkers with experience of airy High Routes. It´s expected that the ground will be mostly covered with deep snow with maybe some section of ice. Generally it´s relatively safe, though acclimatization could be tough in the beginning.
The first route to be attempted is the Toubkal Normal Route through the South Cirque. From the summit it will be possible to devise among other Peaks: facing NE the Oukaimeden (3273m), the Aksoual (3903m), the Angour (3916m) and the Anrhemer (3892m); facing East the Iferouane (3996m) and the Tinilim (3670m); facing west the Tadat (3760m) and the Ouimlilene (3876m), besides the peaks that will be attempted positioned mainly on West-Southwest.
The second leg comprehends the following: Ras n`Ouanoukrim (4088m) with route up the Mizane Valley until the Col in the end (Tizi n`Ouagane, 3735m), then taking on the right the broad Ouanoukrim East Ridge. Passing some gendarmes, a short gully and the left roof, the North summit Ras (4083m) is reached and then the higher true Ouanoukrim summit southwards. From the saddle between both it´s back down the 250m long 30º NE couloir to access the Imrhaz Ravine back to the Base Camp. If there`s time available we will instead turn west around the base of the shoulder after the couloir, up the slope towards the Tizi n`Bou Imrhas (3875m), and then up the NE ridge to the Tadaft (3900m). Back down and then up the SE Ridge of the main/North Akoiud Peak (4010m). Descent by the Iglioua Ravine, back to BC.
The third leg explores the eastern section of the Ouanoukrim Chain. From Base Camp ascent of the 40º gully Tadat Ravine up to the Tizi (3740m) to climb the 30m high rock pinnacle Tadat (3760m) followed by the traverse of the NNE Ridge to ascent the Biguinoussene (3990m). Continuing on the ridge with several steps, gaps and prongs for the Clochetons (3930m) graded III. Descent to the saddle and up the shoulder for the Afella (4015m) which has 2 summits, with the North Peak being lower. After the descent to the Tizi n`Amrharas n`Iglioua (3815m), comes the climb of the fourth Akioud. That´s the Akoiud North (4010m) climbed by the NNW Ridge Route, after which is the return to BC.
The final stage is the Toubkal Traverse, starting with the North Cirque Route with a detour to the left for the climb of the Tibherine (3887m) accessed by a couloir. The Traverse continues slopping down eastward for the Col, under the Imousser (4010m). After this ascent, comes the airy Toubkal NE Ridge up to the summit plateau. Descent by the Normal Route. |
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EXPLORING A PLANET LIKE NO OTHER |
