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:::EXPEDITION:EXPEDITION:EXPEDITION:EXPEDITION::: |
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MUZTAGH ATA West Face EXPEDITION 2009 |
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After Marco Polo passed here on the 13th century this area only saw another westerner in 1603, the Portuguese Jesuit Benedicto de Gois. The famous Swedish explorer Sven Hedin was the first trying to ascend it, in 1894, on a yak (only on those days!) which of course succumbed midway. Still, he tried to continue on foot but also failed. He reached the 6300m on the left side of YamBulak Glacier. Others also tried it in 1900 and 1904 but with no avail. In 1947 Polar explorer Eric Shipton with British climber Bill Tilman got closer to the summit (6800/6900m) but, were defeated by the extreme cold, high winds and deep snow. In 1956 the Soviets teamed with the Chinese succeeded in a very large expedition led by the Russian Beletskiy.
West Face Normal Route on the northern slope of the western side of the mountain. Though considered an easy route, actually less than a fourth makes it to the summit. Nevertheless, the supposed easiness tends to hide the fact that this mountain is just less than 500m lower than an 8000. Just for this fact you need to be very well acclimatized besides strongly fit. Besides, if the short approach already means being taxed from the sudden arrival at 4000m, the temperature drop added by the wind factor means that it´s not uncommon to experience -20/25ºF with just a common 30mph winds above Camp 3. That means a short 30 minutes window before frostbite sets in. And you will be exposed by biting winds from Camp 2 to the summit often much stronger. Also if sometimes these winds crest the snow when packed, sometimes you could be dealing with 1m of deep snow. There isn´t any technical section and it´s free of objective dangers except for the slight increase of new hidden crevasses mainly due to climate change. Steepness lying between 40-45º up to Camp 3. The last section after Camp 3 seems an interminable sloped plateau until the group of rocks that is the summit.
West Face Kalaxong Route on the southern slope of the western side of the mountain, separated from the Normal Route by a huge gap where the Kartamak Glacier runs. It is a slightly longer route and overall is slightly less sloped. It´s rarely climbed, in spite of being almost as easy as the Normal Route in technical terms. But route finding could be problematic and it´s also more crevassed. The route goes in direction of the Kalaxong peak which is the south summit. This is the line of the Beletskiy 1956 first ascent. Base Camp lies at 4500m in a small rocky ground. Camp 1 (5400m) is placed after a snow gully on a 30º slope. Then the route goes between a quite crevassed section negotiated mainly by the left side. Around the 5850m elevation, the Kartamak Glacier flex to the South, almost 400m later is Camp 2. Then comes the most dangerous and demanding section, after the 6400m, with huge crevasses until it`s possible to go straight up. After is a gentle but long slope where is placed Camp 3 at 6800m. Soon the last crevassed ground near the huge cliffs over the Kartamak is finished. Once reached the saddle at 7050m the main summit is on the left and Kalaxong Peak (7277m) on the right. Navigating through the crevasses just below the summit and after some rocky outcrops by the left side, the route joins the same top plateau of the Normal Route.
South Ridge Route In 2005 Russians Alexey Gorbatenkov and Valery Shamalo that had climbed the Koskulak North Face Buttress later joined by Russians A. Novik, D. Komorov and L. Fishkis that had climbed the Koskulak West Ridge, opened what seems to be a first ascent. The route starts at the saddle at 6100m between the Kalaxong and Koskulak Peaks where was positioned Camp 1. Through bad weather and heavy snow they went up to the South Ridge in a tough route finding. The Ridge becomes more abrupt and rocky at 6400m. At 6800m they made Camp 2 and last Camp at 7200m before reached the summit on the fourth day. The route hasn’t difficult technical challenges.
East Ridge Route Technical route just climbed once in the year 2000 by a team led by Dan Mazur. It`s on the remote eastern side of the mountain, with a much longer trekking approach ending with the 10km long moraines of Kuksay Glacier. With BC at 4720m the route follows the long Ridge that divides the two large eastern Cirques. Up to Camp 1 the Ridge is broader and between 40-70º and with some vertical rock climbing pitches. Camp 1 at 5245m and Camp 2 at 5700m on a gentle snow plateau. The ridge is broader again at the depression at 6400m where Camp 3 is. Camp 4 at 7100m after steeper rocky ground.
There is no record of any winter ascents of Muztagh Ata. All climbs have been done during the season from mid June to mid September. In winter this area is incredible remote and with very harsh weather making it a very demanding challenge to tackle.
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COMMENTS ON THE ROUTE (West Face Normal Route)
As said before, this route that we will attempt, it´s easy, technical speaking and enjoys a stunning nature beauty plus one of the shortest approaches in the world, especially for a mountain of this height. The approach trekking from the valley takes about 3 to 4 hours without pressing, with two path options. Base Camp is on a wide flat ground at 4100m.
The route starts on the left side of a fresh water stream that runs into the Subashi Valley. Up until the Camp 1 (5700m) there is a path that have seen thousands of boots, usually just covered with a thin frozen layer or completely dry. Later in the season or after a drier winter, the snow line starts here. From Camp 1 it is an almost 40º direct line straight up until the Icefall (6000/6100m) that is circumvented by the left side. This section is where we find a few hanging seracs, though usually not very menacing, and a more crevassed terrain. Careful attention should be imposed due to possible new still covered crevasses that sometimes are deeper than one might think. After the Icefall it´s again straight up to Camp 2 (6500m), between these lies the steeper section, around 45º. After there is another ice step, again surpassed by the left side. Sloping at 40º, we reach Camp 3 (6950m). From here the route becomes less and less steeper, but incredibly long and still without view of the summit. Due to this sometimes some climbers make a Camp at 7300m at the beginning of the summit plateau. Finally comes into view two small stone mounds with the left one being the Muztagh Ata true summit. |
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EXPLORING A PLANET LIKE NO OTHER |
