:::EXPEDITION:EXPEDITION:EXPEDITION:EXPEDITION:::

RAKAPOSHI NORTH RIDGE EXPEDITION 2009

Since the first exploration of the south side (Barpu Valley) in 1892 by the British traveler and mountaineer W. Martin Conway and his large expedition, Rakaposhi has not seen many attempts, and even less successful summiteers.

 

Entering by the Juglot Glacier, in the summer of 1938, the Dutch M. Vivyan and the British R. Campbell made the first reconnaissance of the south ridge.  After they inspected the North Ridge, which they thought that it would be possible to climb in spite of its long route. Late in July they reached the Northwestern peak (6858m) using this route.

 

The first ascent was in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, two members of a seven member British-Pakistani expedition, by the Southwest Ridge/Spur route. After 36 days of struggle and severe conditions they were the firsts to summit after other unsuccessful expeditions. They have done it among strong snow drifting and blizzard. They were aided by Hunza high altitude porters.

 

The elegant route through along the North Ridge/Spur was first unsuccessfully attempted in 1971 by Karl Herrligkoffer, and again in 1973, this time due to weather problems.

 

1979 sees the first women at top through Anna Czerwinska and Krystyna Palmowska, a fast unroped climb in harsh conditions using the Northwest Ridge. They were part of a Polish-Pakistani expedition with five summiteers.

 

Also in 1979, the Waseda University Japanese expedition succeeds on this route, putting Eiho Ohtani and Matsushi Yamashita on the summit. This was achieved over a period of six weeks, using 5km of fixed rope.

 

In 1984, the Canadians Barry Blanchard, David Cheesmond and Kevin Doyle, summit on the same North Ridge route using the lighter alpine-style with much less fixed rope than the massive expedition style of the Japanese. They achieved it in seven days only.

 

The successful parties on Rakaposhi have summited so far, only on these three routes:

 

Southwest Ridge/Spur (first ascent route). Long, but not exceedingly technical, it is considered the easiest route. Starting from the Kunti glacier, it is no steeper than 60º, pretty straight forward until some tricky gendarmes (rock pinnacles). It has been repeated.

 

Northwest Ridge. Longer and much more technically difficult than the SW Spur/Ridge. It is more than 10km long starting from the Biro Glacier and have more rock to surpass  It has been repeated.

 

North Ridge (a.k.a. North Spur or Japanese Spur). Shorter than the above two routes, but still long and with technically difficult. Has been repeated, including a semi-alpine-style (capsule style) ascent.

 

Attempts have also been made from the East Face (Bagrot Glacier), the East Ridge, and the South and North Face. And NW Spur the longest spur in the world with very difficult vertical walls.

 

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 

COMMENTS ON THE ROUTE (North Ridge aka Japanese Ridge)

 

This route, the one that we will attempt, was chosen by its beauty and quick access including short trek to BC, as well as because this route enjoys much more safety compared to the other alternatives. Despite this is not easy, and will promise for sure some hard sections according to snow and ice conditions.

 

This route starts between the Pisan and Gulmit Glaciers at an altitude of about 6000m. But the challenge starts with an initial couloir climb at 5500m above the Pisan Glacier to reach the ridge itself and avoid the initial section of cornices and rock steps. The ridge is quite long but relatively safe, with no objective dangers, but some complexity. There is a 150m rock band between 6400 and 7000m that could be bypassed through couloirs and then  some steep ice. It is possible to make a camp or bivouac right after at around 7600m. The final section of the ridge involves a difficult rock band grade VI before a traverse to the summit.

One very important requirement of Rakaposhi, because of its altitude and steepness is good acclimatization, almost half of the success lies in it. Rakaposhi is only less than 200m short of an 8000, which is a challenge by itself.

 

Being also a long slope means that there is a requirement of very good fitness.

 

The weather, the factor we can`t control, it isn`t usually harsh during the monsoon, meaning some days are settled with weather windows of clear bright unclouded skies, where temperature can reach the 30ºC. But quick snowfalls might represent added difficulties.

EXPLORING A PLANET

LIKE NO OTHER

more >